Exhaust System Maintenance & Repair for Your Vehicle

Checking your exhaust system on your vehicle periodically and making the required repairs is really important, especially when it comes to your own safety.  Like almost anything that has to do with your vehicle, making a move to have your exhaust system repaired or replaced earlier on when detected can save you time and money. 

Damaged Exhaust System

Exhaust systems in vehicles are designed to carry hot and toxic gases that are produced in the combustion process of the engine, and route them down and away from your vehicle.  Exhaust gas contains carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, water, and nitrogen or sulfur oxides that are supposed to be expelled away from the vehicle, usually towards the rear, away from an entry door.  Exhaust systems contain mounting flanges, piping, converters, and a muffler.  Some newer vehicles even have a serviceable filter that removes pollutants from being expelled into the atmosphere.  The muffler on exhaust systems help to decrease noise made from the engines’ combustion process.

Maintenance of these systems is important because if they get damaged, they can be very expensive to repair or replace.  Exhaust system clamps and brackets should be checked periodically to make sure they are tight and secure.  A loose exhaust system can be easily damaged if not corrected in a timely manner, and would need to be replaced.  Holes, cracks, and missing exhaust system components should be corrected as soon as possible when found.

Exhaust system holes like the one pictured above can be extremely dangerous to the passengers of the vehicle.  Deadly exhaust gases that contain carbon monoxide can easily enter the vehicle though the underbody and into the passenger compartment.  Small amounts of carbon monoxide can be lethal to humans and animals.  Dogs and cats especially.  Do not play around and ignore problems with your vehicles’ exhaust system because it is not worth it.  If you notice your vehicle making a “ticking sound” and the engine has lost some power, you most likely have an exhaust system leak.  If you drive your vehicle and become tired and lethargic feeling more often than not, your vehicle most-likely has a deadly exhaust system leak.  If there is black soot on any of the exhaust system components between the engine and the outlet towards the rear of the vehicle, this means that you have a leak.  These issues need to be take care of immediately.  If money is an issue, you can purchase a temporary exhaust system repair kit that will get you by until you can have your exhaust system repaired or replaced.  These kits often have a tape and putty combination that you can put directly over the leak to seal it off.  These repairs are very temporary, for they don’t seem to last very long. 

Average exhaust system repairs, and even entire replacement systems can usually range from $150.00 – $300.00.  However, if catalytic converters or diesel particulate filters need to be replaced as part of the exhaust system repair, then average exhaust system repairs can quickly amount to $600.00 – $1,000.00 or even more.

Check your exhaust system on your car periodically for your own safety, and to minimize cost and downtime of your vehicle.  For these reasons, it is important to have damaged exhaust systems repaired or replaced when detected.

Winter Weather is Here, Prepare Your Vehicle for the Occasion

Northern Nevada is beginning to see colder weather that has brought wind, ice, and snow to the area.  These conditions have, and will continue to leave ice and snow on the roads throughout the next few months.  Make sure that you, and your vehicle are prepared for the winter weather driving conditions.

First prepare yourself for winter weather driving conditions.  Remember when there is ice and slow, take it slow!  Watch your local weather channel, and make sure to give yourself extra time to travel in the car when the roads are slick.  Take your time, and don’t drive in a hurry to get somewhere during poor driving conditions.  Avoid driving faster than other vehicles and passing them.  When you do this, you greatly increase your chance to be the next accident victim up ahead of the rest of the pack.

Next, have a supply kit in your car in case you get trapped in traffic from another accident, or have your own during poor weather conditions.  Make sure you have some food, like a camping meal kit, a blanket, jacket, gloves, and a flash light.  Vehicle supplies should include a window ice scrapper, road flares, and a set of battery jumper cables.  It is always a good idea to make sure your car has a good spare tire and jack as well.

In addition, make sure that when you travel in winter conditions, always have plenty of gas in the tank to sit in stopped traffic to stay warm, or drive at slow speeds.  It is a good idea to have the battery checked in your car at your local favorite auto parts store if it is 3 or more years old to make sure it won’t leave you and your car stranded somewhere in the cold.  Top-off your windshield washer fluid under the hood before taking an extended driving trip in snowy road conditions.  Check your wiper blades and make sure they are in good condition.  Winter wiper blades should be installed onto your vehicle.  These special winter blades have a thin rubber cover that protects the linkage mechanism so they can continue working correctly.

Winter driving can be very dangerous.  Pay attention to driving conditions before you go out on the road.  Drive courteously and cautiously to get where you are going, and safely.  Have your car checked to make sure it will be ready for cold weather driving, and have it stocked with supplies, – just in case.

For more tips, check out this Winter Driving Guide.

Undercar Fluid Maintenance: Important for Your Vehicle

There are other fluid levels to be checked on your car periodically, besides the ones directly under the hood that were mentioned earlier.  Components under vehicles have their own fluid levels to lubricate internal moving parts, and must be checked from the underside.

The best way to check fluid levels in the components under your vehicle is by placing your car on a vehicle lift.  If a lift is not available, you can slide directly underneath your vehicle after setting the parking brake, and begin to check the different components.  If you are like me, and not even remotely able to fit directly underneath your car because it sits so low to the ground; just know that you can use your vehicle jack to lift-up the vehicle just enough to fit underneath it. I highly recommend “chocking” a wheel on your vehicle on both sides of the wheel that is not lifted up off of the ground to keep the vehicle from accidentally moving and injuring yourself.

Once underneath your vehicle and with simple hand tools, you can begin checking important fluid levels in different components to make sure they contain both adequate and clean oil.  Be sure to check your vehicle owners’ manual for what components should be checked, drained, and when.  Also make sure to adjust the fluid levels in components with the proper fluid types as specified in the owners’ manual.

Components that should be checked periodically:

Front Differential – If your vehicle is all-wheel drive, or four-wheel drive, the front differential oil level must be checked.  Differentials are usually filled with gear oil.  The front differential receives mechanical power from the transfercase through the transmission and the engine of the vehicle to rotate the front wheels.

Rear Differential – Vehicles that are rear-wheel drive, all-wheel drive, or four-wheel drive, have a rear differential that requires the gear oil level to be checked.  The rear differential receives mechanical power from the engine and transmission which rotates the rear wheels.

Transfercase – Vehicles that are all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive have a transfercase that enables the front and rear wheels of a vehicle to rotate in powered unison.  Vehicle transfercases receive mechanical power from the engine and transmission, and have several internal rotating parts that must be lubricated by the proper fluid level and type.

Manual Transmission – Vehicles that have a manual or “standard” transmission have a side check or fill plug that must be removed to check the internal oil level from underneath the vehicle.  Manual transmissions can take various types of oils to properly fill and lubricate its’ internal working parts.  Be sure to check the owners’ manual for the vehicle for specific information.  The transmission is responsible for receiving mechanical power from the engine and transferring it to the wheels to propel the vehicle down the road.

Be sure to check these items periodically.  Jack it up and chock it for safety.  Note that any oil leaks found coming from any of the components should be fixed before they become a large problem.  To repair any of these items can become very costly, and having to replace them can amount to thousands of dollars.  Performing preventative maintenance on them by checking the oil levels and for leaks can save you a lot of time and money.

Other Under-Hood Fluid Maintenance for Your Car

Recently in my previous blogs I have talked about maintaining the fluid levels and systems such as the engine, transmission, and cooling system.  Maintaining these systems is important to prolong the life of your car and save you money.  However, there are a few other components under the hood that should also be checked and serviced periodically to help keep your car trouble free.

Power Steering:  Most cars on the road today are equipped with power-assisted steering.  These power steering systems are hydraulically operated using a power steering pump, and power steering fluid to make the system work and help the driver steer the vehicle with relative ease.  Some cars have different types of power steering systems, but they mostly work the same under a similar concept.  If one day, you notice that your car is hard to steer in a parking lot or around corners at low speeds, you are most likely experiencing an issue with your power steering system.  Fluid leaks in the system will cause the power steering pump to cavitate, and make a “whining noise.”  This is very bad when it happens, and can severely damage the power steering pump in a short amount of time, and can be very costly to repair.  Make sure the power steering pump and hydraulic lines from the pump to the steering box are not leaking.  Maintenance of the power steering system periodically is important to keep both the seals and internal working parts in the power steering pump fully operational, and to minimize failure.  It is recommended to change-out the power steering fluid every two years to help keep the system clean, and to make sure that the chemical properties and specifications of the hydraulic oil will protect the system and keep it functional.  The power steering fluid can usually be drained from the system by removing the soft rubber oil return line from the pump and drained into an oil drain pan and discarded at your local auto parts store.  If this does not work or is too difficult, I would obtain a cheap fluid suction gun from Harbor Freight or your local auto parts store and suck the power steering fluid directly out of the power steering fluid reservoir.   Doing both procedures, I would drain and fill the system to its proper oil level in the reservoir two times after starting the vehicle and turning the steering wheel back and forth several times to make sure the system has all of the old oil removed, and is fully replaced with new oil.

Brake Fluid:  The brake fluid in vehicles is important to change-out every two years, especially from severe driving conditions such as city driving, stop and go traffic, short trips, dusty conditions, etc.  These conditions cause the fluid specifications and chemical properties of the brake fluid to be consumed, and will not offer the proper protection for the system.  Moisture and condensation is the number one enemy to a vehicles’ brake system.  Moisture and condensation will cause the brake components to cease, or make them fail to operate properly.  The brake fluid should be periodically change-out by sucking the fluid out of the reservoir and bled at each wheel to remove moisture and contaminants from the system.  If you notice that the brake fluid on your car is low, you are most likely needing new brake pads on your vehicle, or you have a leak in the brake system.  A leak in the brake system is very dangerous and should be repaired immediately to avoid a crash and injury.

Clutch Fluid:  The clutch fluid should also be changed-out periodically, similar to the brake fluid.  Some vehicles share the same fluid reservoir for the brake and clutch system.  The clutch fluid reservoir provides hydraulic oil to the clutch system to operate the clutch when the pedal is depressed inside the vehicle for those that are equipped with a manual transmission.  The clutch fluid can also be removed from the reservoir with a suction gun and bled from the hydraulic clutch system at the bleeder valve near the clutch mechanism.  Plan on having this fluid changed-out every two years at a local service repair shop.

Windshield Washer Fluid:  This fluid level is important to check, for it is used to help drivers see though their windshield during inclimate weather, or dusty conditions where drivers have the need to use their windshield wipers and washer system.   The fluid level for your windshield washer system should be checked when you check your engine oil level.  It should also be checked more often in the winter time because they washer system is often used during commutes.  Be sure to use washer fluid in your vehicle that is rated to at least -20° to avoid damage to your washer system during freezing weather conditions.  Cheap washer fluid offers minimal protection, so beware.  Windshield washer fluid never really needs to be drained or changed-out, just periodically checked and filled.

Remember that checking and maintaining the fluid levels under the hood of your vehicle is important, and should be done periodically to save you time and money in the future.  Some fluid levels should be checked more often and serviced than others.  Be sure to check your owner’s manual for you vehicle to help keep you educated about where, when, and how when it comes to checking and servicing the fluid levels under the hood of your car.

Cooling System Maintenance for Your Vehicle

Often overlooked after several years of driving your vehicle is the engine cooling system.  The cooling system is very important to take care of in your car to avoid component failure, breakdown, and costly repairs.  There are a few key things you should know about engine cooling systems to keep your cars’ cooling system clean, and operational for the life of the vehicle.

In general, just know that the purpose of the cooling system is to cool-down the engine, and keep it at an optimal temperature during anytime of the year.  It does this by passing a fluid or coolant though the system to absorb heat from the engine and related components that are comprised of several different types of metals.  Engine cooling systems in vehicles consist of the radiator, rubber cooling hoses, water pump, thermostat, heater core, and a mixture of coolant and water.  If there are any problems with these components such as leaks, blockages, failure, and damage, your vehicle can be subject to failure, along with repairs that can be both time consuming and expensive.

Occasionally check for coolant leaks coming from any of these components in your car if you know where they are located in the engine compartment.  One specific cooling system component out of the others is more destined to leak coolant.  This component is the water pump.  The water pump is mounted in a metal housing directly on the front of the engine, on the serpentine drive belt side (usually).  A pulley with a serpentine drive belt is attached directly to the water pump, making it fairly easy to spot and notice that the component is indeed, the water pump.

A water pump moves the coolant throughout the cooling system, and has a high failure rate because they contain bearings, seals, and a propeller blade to push a mixture of coolant and water.  When the cooling system is not properly serviced, this pump begins to suffer from electrolysis, erosion, corrosion, and cavitation.

The thermostat in the cooling system is the component that moderates the optimal operating temperature of the engine.  When an engine does not warm-up correctly or begins to overheat, the thermostat is usually the component of suspect when it comes to these issues.

In addition, when a cooling system is properly maintained by servicing the system periodically and by using the correct engine coolant, negative effects such as electrolysis, erosion, corrosion, and cavitation can be avoided.  As mentioned earlier, cooling systems usually contain several different types of metals.  When these different types of metals are used together in the design of the system, electrolysis becomes a huge concern because the two metals will have a chemical reaction wherever they meet, and generally begin to erode and corrode away from one another.

To avoid these issues, the cooling system should be drained, flushed, and have a new mixture of water and coolant added to the system.  Be sure to check your vehicles’ owners’ manual to know what the correct fluid and procedure is to service the cooling system in your car.  Cars today take several different types of coolants that can be either a traditional engine coolant that has an Ethylene Glycol base, or an extended life coolant that is comprised of a mixture of Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Ethyl Hexanoic Acid, Propylene Glycol, and Neodacanoic Acid.  Both types of coolants have formulated inhibitors and additives to chemically protect the engine and cooling system, and provide temperature protection from -34° to 265°.  Do not attempt to mix these two different styles of coolants together, for they can have a harsh chemical reaction to one another, and will most likely damage the cooling system components in your vehicle.

Be aware that traditional coolant should be changed-out every 2-years or 50,000 miles, and extended-life coolant can be used in a vehicle for 5-years or 150,000 miles.  Vehicles can generally be updated from the use of traditional coolant to extended life coolant if they are properly drained and flushed.  Be sure to fill your vehicle with a proper 50/50 mixture of coolant and mineral-free water (not tap water).

Remember to check the components of the cooling system in your car periodically, service the system when needed, and use the correct coolant to help keep your vehicle running well, and trouble free.

Transmission Service: Important for Your Car

Many vehicles on the road today lack routine preventative maintenance, vehicles that are both public and private.  Drivers are mostly worried about getting their tires and engine oil changed when needed, and often forget about the large expensive component that shifts gears and propels the vehicle down the road at varied speeds as needed: the automatic transmission. 

Automatic transmissions in vehicles take the brunt of driver abuse, from those who often mash the accelerator in an effort to feel the vehicle perform to their liking.  However, no matter how a vehicle is driven, racking miles on them come with a cost.  Automatic transmissions in vehicles that, like the engine, are large expensive components that should not be forgotten about, and should be checked by the driver periodically.

One of the best things to do with an automatic transmission periodically for preventative maintenance is to check the oil using the dipstick.  The dipstick for the transmission is usually located on the other side of the engine compartment from the dipstick to check the engine oil level, and is usually a different color.  The oil should be checked with the vehicle on flat, level ground, with the engine running at idle, and the transmission in “Park”. 

Be sure to note the “Full” and “Add” levels on the dipstick if the vehicle transmission is being checked when it is either  “Hot” or “Cold”.  The dipstick will note the “Full” mark directly on it, in either a “Hot” or “Cold” state of the transmission.  Also note that an automatic transmission is considered to be “hot” or normal operating temperature around 160 degrees Fahrenheit.  Consider that a transmission is about to have what I call an “Atomic Meltdown” just past 260 degrees, which could be caused by low air flow to the front transmission cooler, a plugged cooler, or a transmission oil leak, just FYI.

In addition to just checking the transmission fluid every once in a while, the transmission oil and filter should be changed-out about every 20,000 – 25,000 miles.  If you start pushing your transmission fluid and filter change past 30,000 miles, you can bet that you are drastically decreasing the service life of your automatic transmission.  There is also a magnet in the oil pan of your automatic transmission, that collects all of the fine metal from normal operation of the gears, clutches, and valves within the transmission, and should also be cleaned during the oil and filter change before being reinstalled onto the pan. 

If you check your transmission fluid and you notice that it is “Black” in color, DO NOT have your transmission serviced at all.  Rather, just say a prayer for it, and start saving your money to replace your transmission when it finally goes down for the count.  When your transmission fluid becomes “Black” in color, it means that the clutching material from the clutch discs inside the transmission are no longer attached to the clutches themselves anymore, and are currently suspended within the transmission fluid.  This is very bad.  Your transmission fluid should be a nice “Red” or “Pink” color.  If your fluid is “Brown” in color, it needs to be changed-out as soon as possible to avoid transmission damage and failure.     

Transmission fluid services are expensive, usually around $75.00 – $120.00, but it is worth it to avoid transmission damage or failure.  To replace an automatic transmission, plan-on spending about $2,300 – $3,700 on average, and sometimes even more.  Many automatic transmissions in newer vehicles require the use of full synthetic oil, just like the engine.  Reference your owners’ manual to see what the right transmission oil is for your car, and be sure to use it, with a long skinny plastic funnel to top-off the transmission oil when needed.

Remember folks, the automatic transmission in your car is really expensive, so take care of it to avoid costly repairs and lengthy vehicle down time.

Engine Oil: The Lifeblood of Your Vehicle

Checking your vehicle’s engine oil periodically is very important.  Engine oil is required to lubricate the internal working parts of your engine to keep it performing its very best.  It is a good idea to get in a habit of doing so while filling-up the gas tank at a service station while you are waiting.  Today, many vehicles that are on the road are becoming more fuel efficient, including greater efficiencies with other things like engine oil capacity.

Automakers seem to have it down to an exact science on exactly how much engine oil your vehicle’s engine really needs.  Most passenger cars these days are holding nearly 4 quarts of engine oil, compared to nearly 6 quarts of engine oil that several makes and models required just a few years ago.  This reduction of engine oil capacity for your vehicle’s engine now leaves very little room for error.

It is very common for engines in today’s vehicles to have very precise clearances between all the internal working parts, and some engine oil becomes consumed over an extended period of time.  It is fairly normal for vehicles to consume nearly a quart of engine oil before service intervals.   Because of this, attention should be made to the engine oil level periodically to make sure the level is mostly at the “full mark” on the engine’s dipstick.

If you are not sure what types of engine oil that is needed for your vehicle’s engine, always reference the vehicle’s owner’s manual.  An engine fluid capacity and parameters tag can also be usually found pasted in the engine compartment, near the front of the vehicle by the hood latch or even located on the underside of the vehicle’s hood.

Note that many vehicles today also require a synthetic-blend type of engine oil, or even full-synthetic oil.  Pay close attention to this, and be sure not to switch from synthetic engine oil to conventional engine oil, for internal engine damage could occur over a short period of time.

In addition, I recommend avoiding engine oils that are manufactured from a “wax base”, such as Pennzoil for example, and other inexpensive engine oils that can be found on the market.  The “wax base” engine oils often perform poorly in lab tests in 3^rd party testing laboratories, despite the claims of certain oil manufacturers.  These types of oils are cheaper for a reason, and remember that you almost always get what you pay for.  It has been said to pay a little more now or pay a lot more later, and little pay equals little quality when it comes to almost anything.

Be sure to select an engine oil brand for your vehicle that has a good rating and is not the least expensive brand you can find.  Check your engine oil periodically to keep your engine happy, and to help avoid any unexpected internal engine repairs to save both time and money.

Battery Maintenance: Important for Your Car

Batteries in most cars today are a maintenance-free type of battery because they are often hidden away in places like the front wheel-well that make it difficult for them to be visually seen.  However, having a maintenance-free battery in your car doesn’t mean that you don’t have to periodically check your battery’s condition. 

Just like a traditional battery, the cables on a maintenance-free type of battery must be kept clean, with a tight connection between the cable and the battery.  White or green fuzz growing from the top of your battery around the battery cables can eventually leave you and your car stranded somewhere and looking for help.  Care and maintenance of your battery should be performed at least twice a year to be sure your battery is optimally performing for your vehicle.

Batteries in cars are usually 12-volt, and are of the lead-acid type.  They are comprised of 6 battery cells that are made with lead plates, and are placed into a liquid mixture of roughly 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water.  Vehicle batteries are encapsulated in a thin plastic case to contain the battery cells and fluid mixture.  These battery cases can easily crack and break, causing the battery acid to leak out if the battery is not properly fastened into the battery tray or battery storage box with the proper battery hold-down hardware.  When checking your battery cables for tightness and corrosion, be sure to check your battery mounting hardware as well. 

Battery acid levels should also be checked if you have a traditional 12-volt battery in your vehicle.  Traditional batteries have rectangular cover or caps that can and should be removed to check that the battery acid level is just above the lead plates inside the battery.  These battery levels can be adjusted by filling the car battery with distilled water from the store.  Do not fill your vehicle’s battery with tap water from your house, because tap water contains minerals that are harmful to the battery.

The acid mixture in your vehicle’s battery can also be expelled from the breather vents and service ports on the top of the battery from everyday use.  This battery acid eventually comes into direct contact with the battery cable ends and the cables themselves, and begins to cause corrosion.  The sign of green or white colored fuzz growing on the top of the battery and cables is a dead giveaway that a bad chemical reaction is taking place, thus eroding your battery cables and can cause a bad electrical connection between your car’s electrical system and the battery.  I highly recommend the use of anti-corrosion washers between the battery and the battery cables to keep this from happening.  Simply install these washers underneath your battery cables by removing the cables from the battery, and then installing the special washers onto the battery posts.  Install the black or negative battery cable back onto the battery first when doing this procedure. 

Additionally, if you experience that your vehicle’s engine begins to turnover slowly especially in the winter months, note that this is a sign that your battery is beginning to fail.  Acid plates inside the battery can begin to directly touch one another, or can become connected though sediment from the battery’s fluid mixture and plate erosion from constant starting and charging cycles.  This action inside the battery is what actually causes batteries to fail.  If a vehicle’s battery is nearly discharged from something being left on inside the vehicle during cold winter months, the battery will freeze and push the lead plates into one another, thus ruining the battery.

The average life expectancy for a vehicle battery is 3-5 years, and many batteries on the market today offer a 2-3 year warranty.  I recommend spending the money, and buying a good battery for your vehicle that has a decent warranty in case you do have any problems with your vehicle’s battery.  Remember, if you check your vehicle’s battery and condition at least twice a year, battery issues with your vehicle can be greatly minimized.

Buying Tires for Your Vehicle

Now that I got you probably scared about your vehicle’s tires from reading my previous blog post a few days ago, just know you have several good options when it comes to buying tires.

Remember to first look in your drivers’ side door jamb to see what size tires and ply rating are supposed to be on your vehicle.  Next, either get online or call around to get the best deal on tires.  Tires for your vehicle are really expensive these days, so do your pocket book a favor and shop around.

I always recommend buying tires from a well-known licensed tire dealer.  One of the first things I do though is I check with Costco Wholesale, to see what their current tires prices are with my coupon that I get in the mail.  Sometimes they are the cheapest around with their coupon.  When I buy tires for my fleet of vehicles at work, I have discovered that Discount Tire Co. offers some of the best tire prices in the area, especially for a good 60,000 mile tire.  Always get a high rated mileage tire, and be sure to ask about a tires’ mileage rating before your purchase new tires.  My second best choice for buying tires is at Tires Plus.  They too offer excellent prices for tires.

The reason why I recommend buying new tires from a well-known and licensed tire dealer is that they generally provide several services that you cannot get when you buy tires either online, or from a private party.  These services generally include free roadside assistance, free flat repair, free air checks, and free balance and rotation for the life of your tires.  All of these services make it really enticing and worthwhile to buy new tires from a tire dealer.

The second best option is to buy discounted tires online, and have them shipped directly to you.  However, you are then going to have to take your tires to a tire store and have them mounted and balanced, which may not be worth the tire savings from buying them online, instead of from a local tire dealer.  If you are interested in buying tires online and checking tire prices, I suggest visiting Tire Rack.

Another option is to buy tires from a local used tire and wheel place if you simply cannot afford to buy new tires.  I often do this to save money, especially when I need a replacement wheel to match the factory ones currently on my vehicle.  A great place to check out a used tire dealer in the Carson Area is Carson Used Tire and Wheel, or Mr. Hubcap and Wheel in Reno.

Lastly, your final option to buy tires is from a private party.  A good place to find tires is on Craigslist.  People often buy lift kits and new tires and wheels for their current vehicles, and get rid-of their factory tires and wheels, even sometimes new, for very low and inexpensive prices.  Always be on the lookout for good tires at cheap prices when you can.

I encourage you to check your tires on your vehicle, and remember that you have many options when it comes to buying tires for your vehicle.  Happy tire hunting!

Tire Information for your Car, Truck, or Van

Remember folks, having good tires on your vehicle for the commute to work, traveling with the family, or just for yourself is very important.  Safety for yourself and others should always be top priority when it comes to your vehicle, and your tires.  I talked previously about checking your vehicle and inspecting it, but know just how important tires really are.

All across America each year, thousands of dangerous and deadly vehicle accidents are contributed to tire failures.  Although many defects in tires are not visually detectable, several other tire defects can be easily detected such as cuts, cracks, gouges, etc. and should be acted upon.

Aside from tire defects, the biggest cause for tire failures on passenger vehicles is from lack of maintenance.  The biggest key to proper tire maintenance is having the correct tire inflation.  The issue of tire failure is normally caused by tires that are under-inflated, meaning that they do not have enough air in them per the manufacturers’ specifications for both the vehicle, and the tire itself.  When tires are under-inflated, the tires’ sidewall flexes more, and more tread comes in contact with the road surface; which not only causes the tire to wear-out more quickly, but creates excessive heat that weakens the rubber which eventually, will cause a tire to blow-out, and can lead to a deadly crash. 

Make-sure the tire pressures indicated on the tag in the drivers’ door or vehicle manual is either just below, or meets the tire pressure rating on the side of your tire.  Also make sure your tire size is correct for your vehicle.  If it does not, you are most likely using the wrong tires, and they should be replaced with the proper rated tires for safety reasons.

Another major player in vehicle tire failures that lead to crashes is having a vehicle and its’ tires overloaded.  Each tire is designed to carry only so much weight on a vehicle.  When you fill a light-duty vehicle with light-duty tires on it with all sorts of heavy objects and materials, you are greatly running the risk of having a tire issue, and quite possibly an accident.  This excessive weight causes the side of the tire to bulge-out, and can also cause internal tire damage, just like having under-inflated tires.  Check to see what weight the tire can carry by looking at the sidewall of the tire.  Look to see what the vehicle weighs empty by reading the tag in the door, and decide how much cargo you are carrying, and determine if your vehicle is overloaded or not.  If you notice your vehicle is driving very unusual or “squirrely”, you are most-likely driving on overloaded tires. 

Driving and hitting objects on the roadway is a great threat to tires.  This includes curbs, ditches and potholes.  These tire hazards can be very quick to shorten the life of a perfectly good tire by weakening or damaging them with punctures and cuts in both the tread, and in the sidewall.  If your tire doesn’t go immediately flat or shortly thereafter when striking an object in the roadway, other damage could have occurred in the tread and sidewall, and is sometimes difficult to visibly detect.  Be thorough in checking your tires for damage after having a roadway incident and striking foreign objects.

Be sure to have adequate tread depth on your tires as well.  There should be at least 4/32” tread depth on your front tires, and 2/32” tread depth on your rear tires.  Tires with adequate tread depth make navigating in rain and snow and other inclement weather conditions much safer.  Tires with low tread depth can also heat-up, and have their design and integrality weakened, which can result in tragedy.   

Lastly, tire defects can be minimized by making sure you are not using tires on your vehicle that are more than ten years old.  Federal officials and tire manufactures alike never recommend the use of tires that are out of the ten year range.  To check to see how old your tires are on your vehicle, find the “DOT” stamp on the side of your tire.  The last four digits of your tires’ serial number represent the week and year that your particular tire was manufactured.  Some vehicle and tire manufacturers don’t recommend using tires older than six years, so be sure to check on that.

For more information on tires and what to look for, check-out this article from Consumer Reports, and this great pictorial example of tire failure analysis of driving on an under-inflated tire.

When you check your car, pay specific attention to your tires.  Check the tire inflation levels, check tire condition and tread depth.  If you notice something odd or amiss about your tires, stop using them; and get them replaced, for your safety, and the safety of others.